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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has left the family totally surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” says the family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest shop securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.